Chesapeake Bay - St Michaels, Maryland for Your Water-side Break

Chesapeake Bay is the largest estuary in the entire USA, spanning the borders of Virginia and Maryland. More than 150 rivers feed into it and the bay itself flows into the Atlantic Ocean near Virginia Beach and Hampton. A long promontory protects the bay from the sea's winds and tides, stretching down from Wilmington. Here, in this natural, recreational retreat, you are only a few hours from Baltimore and Washington, but in a different world.

Chesapeake Bay proudly dominates the east coast of the state of Virginia but extends 200miles and so into Maryland too. It was formed by the flooding of the Susquehanna River in geological history - millions of years ago - rather than by glaciers. It is an unique environment with cliffs and fossils, sea water, fresh water and combinations of the two, so has some spectacular fishing, scenery and wildlife.

There are over 300 species of fish, plus the area is renowned for its blue crab and shellfish including clams and oysters in the shallow waters. Eel and striped bass can be readily caught here. For those who prefer to birdwatch, Chesapeake Bay is a stopping point on migratory routes for the swans, geese and ducks. But it boasts an impressive number of permanent residents including ospreys, peregrine falcons, the iconic bald eagle, herons and the endangered Piping Plover.  Though the waters were in real danger of becoming barren in the Seventies, massive clean ups and conservation efforts have reinstated Chesapeake Bay as a nature-rich destination.

In the northern, Maryland region of the Bay you are never too far from city civilisation, though you may feel as though you are. Here, pretty towns steeped in colonial history include St Michaels, Deal and Kent Islands, Cobb Island and Royal Oak, Oxford and Church Creek. These and other small towns offer waterfront holiday rentals for the ideal vacation on the shores.

St Michaels is a mere hour and a half from Baltimore and under two hours from Washington DC. But as you cross the Chesapeake Bay Bridge, you enter a different world. It really has the feel of an island, with checkered fields yielding to a rugged coast, quaint marinas and wetlands. Just over a thousand people live here but St Michaels attracts many more throughout the year keen to step back in time and enjoy a quieter, slower pace of life. It is within easy reach of Easton and Oxford. This historic little town was founded on ship-building and tobacco and has several authentic old buildings, canneries and churches. The harbour in particular with the unusual Hooper Strait Lighthouse and the maritime museum are well worth a visit and a stroll.

The Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum is immediately next to the lighthouse and pier. Both indoors and outside there is a great collection of historic artefacts and displays relating to the maritime history of St. Michaels. Its collection of 85 vessels is the most important in the world, featuring sail, rowing and power boats.

To take to the water, there are several cruise options. You can take the skipjack H M Krentz every day from the Crab Claw Restaurant or board the cat Selina II for a sunset or moonlit champagne excursion. The Patriot gives narrated, guided tours that are a great introduction to the town, its wildlife and history. All operate daily.

Walking on foot is highly recommended in this small 18th and 19th-century town. You can get maps from St Mary's Square museum and simply amble the historic streets: perhaps taking in the farmer's market (Saturdays) or the Winery, based in an old mill. Naturally, there is a good range of restaurants and caf°s in which to rest your feet and satisfy your appetite.